Côte d'Azur City Guide List
Art by Regina Yazdi
Jena's Guide to Côte d'Azur
The South of France is my home away from home. It’s the place I studied natural cosmetics and fragrances and worked one on one with a French chemist. It’s the place I spent most of my time alone, developing formulas, driving in a smart car playing Lana Del Rey and Bjork, stopping in Grasse at an convenience slash grocery store for the best olives and best baguette, and my most favorite place to vacation. As soon as I get to the south of France it feels like the world stops. Everything completely pauses and slows down. It truly is the one place in the world I’m able to regenerate and completely relax. The phrase “slow living” applies here. I wanted to share some of my most treasured best kept secrets with you.
HOTELS, FOOD & DRINK
( Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc )167-165 Bd J. F. Kennedy, 06160 Antibes, France
What it is:A luxury hotel and if you didn’t already know - Jena’s happiest place on Earth! Since its 1870 beginnings as a private mansion, it has become one of the most elegant and gorgeous places to stay, notably for the Kennedy Family, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Marlene Dietrich, Orson Welles, Winston Churchill, and of course it’s been a favorite of many movie stars and directors during the Cannes Film Festival.
What we like about it:It’s a sanctuary - offering privacy, peace and beauty, with everything you need to relax and recharge - from its gorgeous bedrooms where the unique light floods in, to its stunning pool, sea views, luxurious spa treatments, rose garden and grounds, and the very best in cuisine (see the LouRoc Restaurant entry also in this guide).
Our favorite:Jena loves the breakfast buffet overlooking the ocean, especially the fresh cantaloupe and watermelon, some leafy greens, and a little bit of cheese and mushroom to start the day. |
( LouRoc Restaurant )
What it is:A Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hotel du Cap, with evening tables from late April to late October.
What we like about it:Stunning views, a warm welcome (even warmer if you’ve been there before!) and excellent service. Vegetables come from the hotel’s own kitchen garden and local growers, and the seafood and fish are sourced from traditional, small-scale fisheries. A really nice touch is that much of the tableware has been created by local artisans.
Our favorite:The 8 course tasting menu is pretty hard to beat, especially if you get a great sunset. And after dinner you can retire to the adjacent bar and listen to soothing piano music.
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( Maybourne Riviera and Ceto )A luxury hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant
What it is:A luxury hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant.
What we like about it:The striking modernist architecture against the ancient natural setting, and interior blue, white and stone color schemes are inspired by the coastline and azure skies, and the suites with the sea views are just stunning.
Our favorite:The menu is bursting with fresh fish, seafood, and seasonal offerings. Try the grilled pink lobster with yellow peach Xipister sauce (from the French side of the Basque Country). |
( Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons Hotel )71 Bd du Général de Gaulle, 06230 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
What it is:A luxurious hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, with spectacular views from Nice to Monaco. This place has been a firm favorite with European royalty, artists, writers and musicians; it also boasts a Michelin restaurant, spa, idyllic gardens and its own music festival.
What we like about it:The wellness retreats which focus on exercise, relaxation, nature and healthy eating. Options include hiking, yoga, aromatherapy massages, mindfulness workshops, pottery and cookery classes, and organic wine tasting.
Our favorite:Book an outdoor massage to benefit from the ocean air. Jena also loves the hotel’s little boutique as it stocks some of her favorite Krigler perfumes. |
( Hotel Byblos )20 Av. Paul Signac, 83990 Saint-Tropez
What it is:A magical, five star getaway right in the heart of St Tropez. Built in the 1960s, allegedly to impress Brigitte Bardot, the style is Mediterranean village in traditional terracotta, blue and white. It’s also the home of the famous Riviera hot-spot Les Caves de Roy, frequented since 1967 by the glitterati!
What we like about it:The mosaiced bathrooms are really spacious, which adds an additional touch of luxury, and the beds are extremely comfortable. Our favorite:Of the 87 bedrooms, 47 are suites - so for a huge treat book the Missoni suite. A must-try is their rosé wine, grown from their own vineyards which run right down to the beach. |
( St Tropez Cheval Blanc )Plage de la Bouillabaisse, 83990 Saint-Tropez
What it is:A hotel and restaurant with its own exclusive beach, fitness area, hair and beauty spa and infinity pool.
What we like about it:Are they chefs or are they artists? La Vague d’Or is a Michelin-starred restaurant that produces dishes so spectacularly and lovingly designed that they look ‘almost’ too good to eat - true culinary art.
Our favorite:The vintage-style sun loungers between the ocean and the pool. The sea view rooms with crisp, white bedding, a dressing room area, and French (of course!) windows which lead to a terrace with breath-taking views. |
( Hotel Martinez )8452 Melrose Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90069
What it is:A five star Art Deco hotel which epitomizes the French Riviera. Since it opened in the 1920s this white stucco work of art has become one of ‘the’ places to be seen along La Croisette. It boasts its own restaurants (one of which has two Michelin stars), bars, fitness center, pool, spa, massage cabins.
What we like about it:The gorgeous wooden terrace for dining and relaxing - especially at sunset. The interiors have preserved its early history throughout its refurbishments. No wonder it’s a favorite with celebrities, especially during the Film Festival. Added bonus - it is pet friendly! .
Our favorite:The breakfast buffet is not to be missed! |
( La Colombe d'Or Hotel & Restaurant )Place du Général de Gaulle, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence
What it is:Set in a hilltop village, this 100 year old hotel has charming rooms, art by Chagall, Matisse, Calder, Braque, Picasso, and Cocteau, an elegant restaurant, and a cocktail bar. From its beginnings as a cafe-bar in the 1920s, to an inn with three rooms - often occupied by artists who paid with paintings - it expanded to become a favorite of the international crowd in the 1950s and 60s.
What we like about it:It’s old school and cozy, from the bohemian, multi-colored roof tiles to the heated pool and the garden where you can take your meals. Be sure to check the sign as you enter: “Ici on loge à cheval, à pied ou en peinture” …“Here we lodge those on foot, on horseback, or with paintings.”
Our favorite:: Jena’s favorites here over the years have been the simplest of summer flavors - ham and figs (fresh from the courtyard garden), the Dover sole meuniere, and the wild strawberries. |
( Gaia )15 Galerie Charles III, 98000 Monaco
What it is:Part of the Gaia brand which has opened restaurants in London’s Mayfair, Dubai, Miami, Doha and Marbella, this is a Greek-Mediterranean upmarket taverna-style restaurant - think white linen tablecloths, gleaming silverware.
What we like about it:The lower level of the restaurant has a special area known as the Chef’s Table. It offers an intimate dining experience, with just twelve seats. The white stone walls here are decorated with copper pans, creating an authentic Aegean ambience.
Our favorite:The oven-grilled fish with lemon oil. |
( Restaurant Le Mas Provençal )243 Av. de Verdun, 06360 Èze
What it is:Sometimes called ‘the flower restaurant’, this is a unique setting for your gourmet dinner - a greenhouse full of floral displays which becomes a dining room at night, serving traditional Provencal dishes.
What we like about it:This prettiest of settings is ideal for a romantic dinner.
Our favorite:The house speciality - a risotto aux cepes, made with porcini mushrooms, which is served in an actual 100kg parmesan. And do not miss the home-made chocolate mousse. |
( La Pinede )10 Av. Raymond Gramaglia, 06320 Cap-d'Ail
What it is:Set on the coastal path, this is a chic French/Mediterranean seafood restaurant, open for lunch and dinner. Typical traditional dishes such as Salade Nicoise, Moules Mariniere, grilled sardines are on the menu alongside popular fish and meats.
What we like about it:It’s a very relaxing setting with a calm, vacation vibe and amazing views.
Our favorite:A patio table in the late afternoon sunshine, melon with pink shrimps, followed by sea bass with wild fennel. |
( Restaurant La Guérite - Cannes )Île Sainte-Marguerite, 06400 Cannes
What it is:Set on the Sainte-Marguerite islands, La Guérite is only accessible by boat, so it’s a very exclusive and private place to visit for lunch, and spend time relaxing on a sunbed and swimming in those crystal blue waters before you’re transported back to the mainland. Arrive by boat from Du Cap, or book a seat on the restaurant’s own boat shuttle.
What we like about it:It’s just such an idyllic escape for a day or half day. Things ramp up late afternoon with music and dancing.
Our favorite:The grilled seafood and salad or the signature pasta. |
( Sénéquier )29 Quai Jean Jaurès, 83990 Saint-Tropez
What it is:Serving Mediterranean and French food, this is one of the oldest, and probably the most famous of the cafes in St Tropez. Overlooking the yachts in the port, its signature red frontage and furniture, and its vintage French decor have welcomed ultra VIP guests as Elton John, Giorgio Armani, and Karl Lagerfeld.
What we like about it:A gorgeous little spot - sit under the red canopy and watch the world go by.
Our favorite:The breakfast - fresh fruit salad, pressed fruit juice, coffee, toast and croissant, local jam or honey, and usually more coffee! |
( African Queen )Port de Plaisance, 06310 Beaulieu-sur-Mer
What it is:A restaurant specializing in dishes from Nice, the South of France and the Mediterranean, with an outdoor terrace overlooking the port of Beaulieu sur Mer.
What we like about it:Inspired by the 1951 film, there are some lovely touches evoking old-style travel - zebra cushions, wicker lanterns, rattan chairs, warm wood, green plants - a theme which spills over beautifully into the choice of dinner plates and serving dishes.
Our favorite:The traditional Nicoise salad with tuna belly in oil, which is fun because they prepare it in front of you. Their famous wood-fired truffle pizza is also one not to miss. |
( Le Plongeoir )60 Bd Franck Pilatte, 06300 Nice
What it is:With its unique location on a rocky outcrop, this restaurant offers fish and seafood as its specialty and works with local growers and suppliers to offer a seasonal menu.
What we like about it:Uniquely located on a rocky outcrop, this is a great setting overlooking the sea and the port.
Our favorite:The roasted sea bass which is served with polenta croquettes, followed by the goats cheese with candied violets. |
( Baba )10 Bd Maréchal Juin, 06160 Antibes
What it is:A beach restaurant serving Middle Eastern food which has been recreated with a French accent.
What we like about it:Eating dinner whilst listening to the sound of the waves is pretty hard to beat.
Our favorite:The eggplant 123 appetizer is an absolute treat - smoked eggplant, tahini, watercress cream, pistachios and raspberries - such a clever combination of flavors. Oh, and leave room for at least one dessert as they are particularly tempting! |
( Racines - Bruno Cirino )3 rue Clément-Roassal, Nice, 06000
What it is:This gourmet Mediterranean vegetarian restaurant opened in 2020, and is the latest Bruno Cirino restaurant. Garnering five star reviews, it’s a culinary journey for foodies that won’t disappoint.
What we like about it:Vegetables and fruit are selected daily from the market or from the restaurant’s own vegetable gardens and orchards in the nearby village.
Our favorite:The tasting menu - an absolutely wonderful series of dishes culminating in three fruit plates of red berries, fresh peaches and fresh figs. |
( Gelateria Del Porto )4 Rue Aubernon, 06600 Antibes
What it is:An artisan ice cream and sorbet maker in the heart of Antibes.
What we like about it:Everything is made on-site in small quantities every day, using fresh ingredients with no artificial flavors, preservatives, or coloring.
Our favorite:The frozen rose: have you ever seen those waffle cones where the ice cream or sorbet on top looks like rose petals? This is the place that creates those! The coconut and passion fruit is the perfect end to a day, after an afternoon at the beach, or dinner in Antibes. |
( Nammos Beach Club )Palm Beach, 06400 Cannes
What it is:Famed around the world for its combination of gastronomy, glamour and old-style waterfront luxury, Nammos opened its doors (and sunloungers!) in Cannes during the 2024 Film Festival. Following a four-year renovation, you can now experience its deliciously tempting menu of fresh fish, seafood, steaks, its famous Greek Salad and the most wonderful home made pasta dishes. It also features a unique waterfront saltwater pool in addition to its own beach area. Then there’s the fitness center and wellness area for some additional ‘you’ time.
What we like about it:The iconic location has a rich history of politicians, royalty and movie stars spending time there and we love how the older architecture blends effortlessly with new cuisine, beach luxury and wellness.
Our favorite:The burrata salad with grilled asparagus, heritage tomatoes, Greek olives, lemon olive oil and chilli flakes, any of the pastas or the fish of the day. But leave room for dessert - the honeycomb and fig cheesecake or the portokalopita with orange blossom ice cream are de rigeur. |
( Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc )167-165 Bd J. F. Kennedy, 06160 Antibes, France
What it is:A luxury hotel and if you didn’t already know - Jena’s happiest place on Earth! Since its 1870 beginnings as a private mansion, it has become one of the most elegant and gorgeous places to stay, notably for the Kennedy Family, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Marlene Dietrich, Orson Welles, Winston Churchill, and of course it’s been a favorite of many movie stars and directors during the Cannes Film Festival.
What we like about it:It’s a sanctuary - offering privacy, peace and beauty, with everything you need to relax and recharge - from its gorgeous bedrooms where the unique light floods in, to its stunning pool, sea views, luxurious spa treatments, rose garden and grounds, and the very best in cuisine (see the LouRoc Restaurant entry also in this guide).
Our favorite:Jena loves the breakfast buffet overlooking the ocean, especially the fresh cantaloupe and watermelon, some leafy greens, and a little bit of cheese and mushroom to start the day. |
( LouRoc Restaurant )8461 Melrose Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90069
What it is:A Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hotel du Cap, with evening tables from late April to late October.
What we like about it:Stunning views, a warm welcome (even warmer if you’ve been there before!) and excellent service. Vegetables come from the hotel’s own kitchen garden and local growers, and the seafood and fish are sourced from traditional, small-scale fisheries. A really nice touch is that much of the tableware has been created by local artisans.
Our favorite:The 8 course tasting menu is pretty hard to beat, especially if you get a great sunset. And after dinner you can retire to the adjacent bar and listen to soothing piano music.
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( Maybourne Riviera and Ceto )A luxury hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant
What it is:A luxury hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant.
What we like about it:The striking modernist architecture against the ancient natural setting, and interior blue, white and stone color schemes are inspired by the coastline and azure skies, and the suites with the sea views are just stunning.
Our favorite:The menu is bursting with fresh fish, seafood, and seasonal offerings. Try the grilled pink lobster with yellow peach Xipister sauce (from the French side of the Basque Country). |
( Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons Hotel )71 Bd du Général de Gaulle, 06230 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
What it is:A luxurious hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, with spectacular views from Nice to Monaco. This place has been a firm favorite with European royalty, artists, writers and musicians; it also boasts a Michelin restaurant, spa, idyllic gardens and its own music festival.
What we like about it:The wellness retreats which focus on exercise, relaxation, nature and healthy eating. Options include hiking, yoga, aromatherapy massages, mindfulness workshops, pottery and cookery classes, and organic wine tasting.
Our favorite:Book an outdoor massage to benefit from the ocean air. Jena also loves the hotel’s little boutique as it stocks some of her favorite Krigler perfumes. |
( Hotel Byblos )20 Av. Paul Signac, 83990 Saint-Tropez
What it is:A magical, five star getaway right in the heart of St Tropez. Built in the 1960s, allegedly to impress Brigitte Bardot, the style is Mediterranean village in traditional terracotta, blue and white. It’s also the home of the famous Riviera hot-spot Les Caves de Roy, frequented since 1967 by the glitterati!
What we like about it:The mosaiced bathrooms are really spacious, which adds an additional touch of luxury, and the beds are extremely comfortable. Our favorite:Of the 87 bedrooms, 47 are suites - so for a huge treat book the Missoni suite. A must-try is their rosé wine, grown from their own vineyards which run right down to the beach. |
( St Tropez Cheval Blanc )Plage de la Bouillabaisse, 83990 Saint-Tropez
What it is:A hotel and restaurant with its own exclusive beach, fitness area, hair and beauty spa and infinity pool.
What we like about it:Are they chefs or are they artists? La Vague d’Or is a Michelin-starred restaurant that produces dishes so spectacularly and lovingly designed that they look ‘almost’ too good to eat - true culinary art.
Our favorite:The vintage-style sun loungers between the ocean and the pool. The sea view rooms with crisp, white bedding, a dressing room area, and French (of course!) windows which lead to a terrace with breath-taking views. |
( Hotel Martinez )73 Bd de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes
What it is:A five star Art Deco hotel which epitomizes the French Riviera. Since it opened in the 1920s this white stucco work of art has become one of ‘the’ places to be seen along La Croisette. It boasts its own restaurants (one of which has two Michelin stars), bars, fitness center, pool, spa, massage cabins.
What we like about it:The gorgeous wooden terrace for dining and relaxing - especially at sunset. The interiors have preserved its early history throughout its refurbishments. No wonder it’s a favorite with celebrities, especially during the Film Festival. Added bonus - it is pet friendly! .
Our favorite:The breakfast buffet is not to be missed! |
( La Colombe d'Or Hotel & Restaurant )Place du Général de Gaulle, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence
What it is:Set in a hilltop village, this 100 year old hotel has charming rooms, art by Chagall, Matisse, Calder, Braque, Picasso, and Cocteau, an elegant restaurant, and a cocktail bar. From its beginnings as a cafe-bar in the 1920s, to an inn with three rooms - often occupied by artists who paid with paintings - it expanded to become a favorite of the international crowd in the 1950s and 60s.
What we like about it:It’s old school and cozy, from the bohemian, multi-colored roof tiles to the heated pool and the garden where you can take your meals. Be sure to check the sign as you enter: “Ici on loge à cheval, à pied ou en peinture” …“Here we lodge those on foot, on horseback, or with paintings.”
Our favorite:Jena’s favorites here over the years have been the simplest of summer flavors - ham and figs (fresh from the courtyard garden), the Dover sole meuniere, and the wild strawberries. |
( Gaia )15 Galerie Charles III, 98000 Monaco
What it is:Part of the Gaia brand which has opened restaurants in London’s Mayfair, Dubai, Miami, Doha and Marbella, this is a Greek-Mediterranean upmarket taverna-style restaurant - think white linen tablecloths, gleaming silverware.
What we like about it:The lower level of the restaurant has a special area known as the Chef’s Table. It offers an intimate dining experience, with just twelve seats. The white stone walls here are decorated with copper pans, creating an authentic Aegean ambience.
Our favorite:The oven-grilled fish with lemon oil. |
( Restaurant Le Mas Provençal )243 Av. de Verdun, 06360 Èze
What it is:Sometimes called ‘the flower restaurant’, this is a unique setting for your gourmet dinner - a greenhouse full of floral displays which becomes a dining room at night, serving traditional Provencal dishes.
What we like about it:The prettiest of settings. Ideal for a romantic dinner.
Our favorite:The house speciality - a risotto aux cepes, made with porcini mushrooms, which is served in an actual 100kg parmesan. And do not miss the home-made chocolate mousse. |
( La Pinede )10 Av. Raymond Gramaglia, 06320 Cap-d'Ail
What it is:Set on the coastal path, this is a chic French/Mediterranean seafood restaurant, open for lunch and dinner. Typical traditional dishes such as Salade Nicoise, Moules Mariniere, grilled sardines are on the menu alongside popular fish and meats.
What we like about it:It’s a very relaxing setting with a calm, vacation vibe and amazing views.
Our favorite:A patio table in the late afternoon sunshine, melon with pink shrimps, followed by sea bass with wild fennel. |
( Restaurant La Guérite - Cannes )Île Sainte-Marguerite, 06400 Cannes
What it is:Set on the Sainte-Marguerite islands, La Guérite is only accessible by boat, so it’s a very exclusive and private place to visit for lunch, and spend time relaxing on a sunbed and swimming in those crystal blue waters before you’re transported back to the mainland. Arrive by boat from Du Cap, or book a seat on the restaurant’s own boat shuttle.
What we like about it:It’s just such an idyllic escape for a day or half day. Things ramp up late afternoon with music and dancing.
Our favorite:The grilled seafood and salad or the signature pasta. |
( Sénéquier )29 Quai Jean Jaurès, 83990 Saint-Tropez
What it is:Serving Mediterranean and French food, this is one of the oldest, and probably the most famous of the cafes in St Tropez. Overlooking the yachts in the port, its signature red frontage and furniture, and its vintage French decor have welcomed ultra VIP guests as Elton John, Giorgio Armani, and Karl Lagerfeld.
What we like about it:A gorgeous little spot - sit under the red canopy and watch the world go by. Our favorite:The breakfast - fresh fruit salad, pressed fruit juice, coffee, toast and croissant, local jam or honey, and usually more coffee! |
( African Queen )Port de Plaisance, 06310 Beaulieu-sur-Mer
What it is:A restaurant specializing in dishes from Nice, the South of France and the Mediterranean, with an outdoor terrace overlooking the port of Beaulieu sur Mer.
What we like about it:Inspired by the 1951 film, there are some lovely touches evoking old-style travel - zebra cushions, wicker lanterns, rattan chairs, warm wood, green plants - a theme which spills over beautifully into the choice of dinner plates and serving dishes.
Our favorite:The traditional Nicoise salad with tuna belly in oil, which is fun because they prepare it in front of you. Their famous wood-fired truffle pizza is also one not to miss. |
( Le Plongeoir )60 Bd Franck Pilatte, 06300 Nice
What it is:With its unique location on a rocky outcrop, this restaurant offers fish and seafood as its specialty and works with local growers and suppliers to offer a seasonal menu.
What we like about it:Uniquely located on a rocky outcrop, this is a great setting overlooking the sea and the port.
Our favorite:The roasted sea bass which is served with polenta croquettes, followed by the goats cheese with candied violets. |
( Baba )10 Bd Maréchal Juin, 06160 Antibes
What it is:A beach restaurant serving Middle Eastern food which has been recreated with a French accent.
What we like about it:Eating dinner whilst listening to the sound of the waves is pretty hard to beat.
Our favorite:The eggplant 123 appetizer is an absolute treat - smoked eggplant, tahini, watercress cream, pistachios and raspberries - such a clever combination of flavors. Oh, and leave room for at least one dessert as they are particularly tempting! |
( Racines - Bruno Cirino )3 rue Clément-Roassal, Nice, 06000
What it is:This gourmet Mediterranean vegetarian restaurant opened in 2020, and is the latest Bruno Cirino restaurant. Garnering five star reviews, it’s a culinary journey for foodies that won’t disappoint.
What we like about it:Vegetables and fruit are selected daily from the market or from the restaurant’s own vegetable gardens and orchards in the nearby village.
Our favorite:The tasting menu - an absolutely wonderful series of dishes culminating in three fruit plates of red berries, fresh peaches and fresh figs. |
( Gelateria Del Porto )4 Rue Aubernon, 06600 Antibes
What it is:An artisan ice cream and sorbet maker in the heart of Antibes.
What we like about it:Everything is made on-site in small quantities every day, using fresh ingredients with no artificial flavors, preservatives, or coloring.
Our favorite:The frozen rose: have you ever seen those waffle cones where the ice cream or sorbet on top looks like rose petals? This is the place that creates those! The coconut and passion fruit is the perfect end to a day, after an afternoon at the beach, or dinner in Antibes. |
Four Fine Patisseries:
St Tropez is home to many patisseries, so to help you get to the very best, we’ve chosen our favorite four.
( La Tarte Tropézienne )Bd Vasserot, 83990 Saint-Tropez
The famous Tarte Tropézienne, a luxurious two-layer brioche cake filled with creams (and raspberries or figs if you choose) and sprinkled with sugar. First created in 1955 from a secret family recipe it got its name in 1956 when the owner provided Brigitte Bardot, Roger Vadim and their film crew a selection of delicacies each day and Bardot suggested ‘Tarte de St Tropez’ which became La Tarte Tropezienne. |
( La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac )66 Rte des Plages, 83990 Saint-Tropez
Worth a visit for many of their creations, but do try their signature Equinoxe Individuel - made from bourbon vanilla cream, with a center of caramel and crisp Speculoos praline, and treat yourself to a box of macaroons and chocolate pralines too.
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( Cedric Grollet )19 Rue des Feniers, 83990 Saint-Tropez
Grollet is the executive pastry chef at Le Meurice, in Paris. He creates stunning desserts that look like the fruits they’re made from - perfect if you want something for a special occasion or a gift - especially the fruit and flower pastries that are so pretty!
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( Boulengerie Aux Deux Frères )5 Rue des Commerçants, 83990 Saint-Tropez
This family run, artisan bakery and patisserie, established in 1965, is famous for its caramelized apricot tart, but you need to try the triple chocolate gateau too. Plus, if you want to do the whole French thing and buy warm, freshly-baked bread at 6am, this is the place to go.
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( La Tarte Tropézienne )Bd Vasserot, 83990 Saint-Tropez
What it is:A patisserie established in 1945 which offers a range of traditional French and European cakes and pastries.
What we like about it:The famous Tarte Tropézienne, a luxurious two-layer brioche cake filled with creams (and raspberries or figs if you choose) and sprinkled with sugar. First created in 1955 from a secret family recipe it got its name in 1956 when the owner provided Brigitte Bardot, Roger Vadim and their film crew a selection of delicacies each day and Bardot suggested ‘Tarte de St Tropez’ which became La Tarte Tropezienne.
Our favorite:You have to try the Tarte Tropézienne, but we’d also recommend the Fraisier Tropézienne - a soft biscuit covered with Tropézienne cream, fresh strawberries, and crushed pistachios, or their chocolate eclairs. |
( La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac )66 Rte des Plages, 83990 Saint-Tropez
Worth a visit for many of their creations, but do try their signature Equinoxe Individuel - made from bourbon vanilla cream, with a center of caramel and crisp Speculoos praline, and treat yourself to a box of macaroons and chocolate pralines too.
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( Cedric Grollet )19 Rue des Feniers, 83990 Saint-Tropez
Grollet is the executive pastry chef at Le Meurice, in Paris. He creates stunning desserts that look like the fruits they’re made from - perfect if you want something for a special occasion or a gift - especially the fruit and flower pastries that are so pretty!
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( Boulengerie Aux Deux Frères )5 Rue des Commerçants, 83990 Saint-Tropez
This family run, artisan bakery and patisserie, established in 1965, is famous for its caramelized apricot tart, but you need to try the triple chocolate gateau too. Plus, if you want to do the whole French thing and buy warm, freshly-baked bread at 6am, this is the place to go.
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ART, CULTURE & PLACES TO VISIT
( Fondation Maeght )623 Chemin des Gardettes, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
What it is:Dedicated to modern and contemporary art, this was France’s first private art institution. Inspired by American institutions such as the Guggenheim, it was opened in 1964 by the Maeghts who were friends with some of the most influential artists of the time - including Braque, Miró and Giacometti.
What we like about it:The harmony of art, architecture and nature. The buildings were designed by architect Josep Lluís Sert, to create a space that was not a museum as such, but a place for artists to come and exchange ideas, and create artworks specifically for the building and its grounds.
Our favorite:The monumental sculptures in the gardens are stunning, the Chagal mosaic, and the opportunity to see larger artworks displayed in their permanent collection. |
( Musée Picasso )Place Mariejol, 06600 Antibes
What it is:A Picasso Museum, which also houses one of his old studios. It was formerly Château Grimaldi and owned by the Grimaldi family until 1608, and was originally built on the site of what was the ancient Greek Acropolis of Antipolis, and then a Roman fort.
What we like about it:Seeing some of Picasso’s works in the very building where he created them. Not long after the end of the war, Picasso was living nearby and a curator named Dor de la Souchère offered to set up a studio for him in the castle. Picasso worked from mid September 1946 for two months, creating many works, sketches and paintings, including one which covered an entire wall surface. Then when he moved back to Paris, he left 23 paintings and 44 sketches in the castle’s custody. The collection has since been enriched with additional works by Picasso and other artists, including Miro.
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( La Verrerie de Biot )5 Chem. des Combes, 06410 Biot
What it is:Established in 1956, this artisan glassmaker with its own store lies nestled in Biot, a medieval town between Cannes and Nice. Allow at least an hour to see the workshop where the glassblowers make the pieces, the showroom and gift shop. Make sure to check opening hours before you visit and bear in mind they close for lunch between 1.30 and 2.30 every day. How wonderfully French is that?!
What we like about it:The craftsmen produce elegant and colorful glass and ceramics using traditional techniques - you can even join in for a small cost! Visitors return year after year to add to their collections.
Our favorite:They’re famous for their bubble glass and we love their tumblers and jugs which are very reasonably priced. |
( Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild )1 Av. Ephrussi de Rothschild, 06230 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
What it is:Built 1907-12 by Baroness Beatrice de Rothschild of the legendary banking family, this rose-coloured seaside villa and its nine gardens are now a registered historical monument. Inside you can explore rooms including the Porcelain Room, the Tapestry Room, and the State Apartments.
What we like about it:Every year for one day in June they have a Painters’ Day where they invite artists who want to be inspired, who can then practice their art in one of the gardens.
Our favorite:Afternoon tea on the terrace, under the orange trees. |
( Cathedral Notre Dame )1 Rue du Saint-Esprit, 06600 Antibes
What it is:A Catholic church and the largest church in Antibes.
What we like about it:The architecture, with its Italian-style rose-colored facade, is stunning and you must see the masterpiece at the altar - the Our Lady of the Rosary, which was created in 1515 by Louis Brea. Make sure you allow enough time to have a wander around the cobbled streets, where you can buy delicious cheeses and local fruit and vegetables. A bonus in the afternoons is you’ll see painters and sculptors at work and can buy from local artists.
Our favorite:A place of peace and reflection - Jena likes to go and light a candle here. |
( Chapelle Saint-Bernardin )14 Rue du Dr Rostan, 06600 Antibes
What it is:Built on Roman ruins, this 16th-century Gothic church has been beautifully restored over recent years and is now officially a historic monument.
What we like about it:Amazing carvings and artwork including the most ornate interior frescos from the 16th and 19th centuries. Be prepared to look up. A lot. Because the ceiling is one of the most gorgeous we’ve ever seen.
Our favorite:Jena likes to go and light a candle here and spend some time in the stillness.
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( La Maison Auer )7 Rue Saint-François de Paule, 06300 Nice
What it is:A traditional shop which has been selling chocolates and candied fruits since 1820.
What we like about it:The cream and gold Florentine decor, from the cabinets to the mirrors and ornate chandeliers.
Our favorite:Treat your inner goddess to one of the wooden boxes of chocolate orange peels, or the heart-shaped velvet box, filled with a selection of favorites. And when you eventually eat the last one, repurpose the containers for your Riviera souvenirs and keepsakes!
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( Fondation Maeght )623 Chemin des Gardettes, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
What it is:Dedicated to modern and contemporary art, this was France’s first private art institution. Inspired by American institutions such as the Guggenheim, it was opened in 1964 by the Maeghts who were friends with some of the most influential artists of the time - including Braque, Miró and Giacometti.
What we like about it:The harmony of art, architecture and nature. The buildings were designed by architect Josep Lluís Sert, to create a space that was not a museum as such, but a place for artists to come and exchange ideas, and create artworks specifically for the building and its grounds.
Our favorite:The monumental sculptures in the gardens are stunning, the Chagal mosaic, and the opportunity to see larger artworks displayed in their permanent collection. |
( Musée Picasso )Place Mariejol, 06600 Antibes
What it is:A Picasso Museum, which also houses one of his old studios. It was formerly Château Grimaldi and owned by the Grimaldi family until 1608, and was originally built on the site of what was the ancient Greek Acropolis of Antipolis, and then a Roman fort.
What we like about it:Seeing some of Picasso’s works in the very building where he created them. Not long after the end of the war, Picasso was living nearby and a curator named Dor de la Souchère offered to set up a studio for him in the castle. Picasso worked from mid September 1946 for two months, creating many works, sketches and paintings, including one which covered an entire wall surface. Then when he moved back to Paris, he left 23 paintings and 44 sketches in the castle’s custody. The collection has since been enriched with additional works by Picasso and other artists, including Miro.
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( La Verrerie de Biot )5 Chem. des Combes, 06410 Biot
What it is:Established in 1956, this artisan glassmaker with its own store lies nestled in Biot, a medieval town between Cannes and Nice. Allow at least an hour to see the workshop where the glassblowers make the pieces, the showroom and gift shop. Make sure to check opening hours before you visit and bear in mind they close for lunch between 1.30 and 2.30 every day. How wonderfully French is that?!
What we like about it:The craftsmen produce elegant and colorful glass and ceramics using traditional techniques - you can even join in for a small cost! Visitors return year after year to add to their collections.
Our favorite:They’re famous for their bubble glass and we love their tumblers and jugs which are very reasonably priced. |
( Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild )1 Av. Ephrussi de Rothschild, 06230 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
What it is:Built 1907-12 by Baroness Beatrice de Rothschild of the legendary banking family, this rose-coloured seaside villa and its nine gardens are now a registered historical monument. Inside you can explore rooms including the Porcelain Room, the Tapestry Room, and the State Apartments.
What we like about it:Every year for one day in June they have a Painters’ Day where they invite artists who want to be inspired, who can then practice their art in one of the gardens.
Our favorite:Afternoon tea on the terrace, under the orange trees. |
( Cathedral Notre Dame )1 Rue du Saint-Esprit, 06600 Antibes
What it is:A Catholic church and the largest church in Antibes.
What we like about it:The architecture, with its Italian-style rose-colored facade, is stunning and you must see the masterpiece at the altar - the Our Lady of the Rosary, which was created in 1515 by Louis Brea. Make sure you allow enough time to have a wander around the cobbled streets, where you can buy delicious cheeses and local fruit and vegetables. A bonus in the afternoons is you’ll see painters and sculptors at work and can buy from local artists.
Our favorite:A place of peace and reflection - Jena likes to go and light a candle here. |
( Chapelle Saint-Bernardin )14 Rue du Dr Rostan, 06600 Antibes
What it is:Built on Roman ruins, this 16th-century Gothic church has been beautifully restored over recent years and is now officially a historic monument.
What we like about it:Amazing carvings and artwork including the most ornate interior frescos from the 16th and 19th centuries. Be prepared to look up. A lot. Because the ceiling is one of the most gorgeous we’ve ever seen.
Our favorite:Jena likes to go and light a candle here and spend some time in the stillness.
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( La Maison Auer )7 Rue Saint-François de Paule, 06300 Nice
What it is:A traditional shop which has been selling chocolates and candied fruits since 1820.
What we like about it:The cream and gold Florentine decor, from the cabinets to the mirrors and ornate chandeliers.
Our favorite:Treat your inner goddess to one of the wooden boxes of chocolate orange peels, or the heart-shaped velvet box, filled with a selection of favorites. And when you eventually eat the last one, repurpose the containers for your Riviera souvenirs and keepsakes!
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WELLBEING
( St Jean Cap Ferrat Coastal Walk )It might be the second most expensive residential place to live in the world after Monaco, but it is also a really nice place to walk. The 6km coastal hike is one of the best ways to appreciate the natural beauty of the Riviera coastline and takes about 2 hours, although you can stop off at a cove for a swim along the way. |
( Nora Ouari Pjanic )
What it is:Nora is a wellness nurse and masseuse therapist based in St Tropez, offering a concierge service for treatments including IV fluid infusions, lymphatic and deep tissue massage and vitamin shots. Perfect if you’re feeling a little jet-lagged.
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( Paloma Beach )1 Chem. de Saint-Hospice, 06230 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
What it is:One of the most iconic beaches on the Cote d’Azur, this has everything - beach time, swimming, restaurant and bar.
What we like about it:It’s stylish with a vintage vibe. Call ahead to reserve a lounger or a table for dinner (8pm - 10.30pm), although at lunchtime you can eat without a reservation. In the evenings, Paloma Beach sets up its restaurant right on the beach.
Our favorite:It would have to be dinner on the beach. We love the artichoke salad with light anchovy sauce, rocket and parmesan shavings, and the lobster tail linguini. Leave room for the summer berry plate or the pavlova! |
( Club 55 )43 Bd Patch, 83350 Ramatuelle
What it is:More than a beach club for the rich and famous, Club 55 has a really nice outdoor restaurant under shade. It serves great fish and seafood and superb fresh veggie platters which are really refreshing, with most of the produce coming from their own gardens nearby.
What we like about it:All guests are personally welcomed by the owner. You can relax in the sun on a lounger on the beach, then cool off by jumping into the ocean by the dock, and dry off in the sun again before your meal. It’s worth saving a few euros for the shop as it sells fabulous upmarket beachwear and coverups. Reservations only.
Our favorite:All guests are personally welcomed by the owner. You can relax in the sun on a lounger on the beach, then cool off by jumping into the ocean by the dock, and dry off in the sun again before your meal. It’s worth saving a few euros for the shop as it sells fabulous upmarket beachwear and coverups. Reservations only. |
( Nice Lawn Tennis Club )5 Av. Suzanne Lenglen, 06000 Nice
What it is:A historic tennis club, which has been in existence since 1890, and is now home to the ATP World Tour’s Nice Open. It has 18 clay courts including a center court stadium. The club also has a gym, fitness and yoga room, a sauna and a clubhouse with a restaurant, a bridge room and a tennis shop.
What we like about it:If you’re interested in playing at the club during your stay, let them know and they’ll provide you with more information about temporary membership. We also love that their courts are always in excellent condition because they're maintained by a team who trained at Roland Garros.
Our favorite:A game of doubles with friends, followed by lunch on the terrace at their Coranice Restaurant which serves seasonal Mediterranean cuisine. |
( La Réserve Ramatuelle )736 Chem. des Cretes, 83350 Ramatuelle
What it is:A five star hotel and spa, offering luxury and privacy with just 28 rooms and suites, each with a terrace or balcony and a sea view over the cove below and 14 multi-room villas (the largest have six bedrooms). And there are three restaurants including the Michelin-starred La Voile and a Japanese rooftop restaurant.
What we like about it:The space, light and design work together in a therapeutic way, harmonizing a perfect blend of light lava stone, terracotta, ceramics, pale woods, organic shapes and neutral fabrics. Wellness packages are created for guests to include tailored nutritional meals, physical activity and beauty treatments. A recent addition has been La Réserve à la Plage, down on Pampelonne Beach, which was designed by Philippe Starck. It’s their private club with 75 sun beds and a restaurant.
Our favorite:The space, light and design work together in a therapeutic way, harmonizing a perfect blend of light lava stone, terracotta, ceramics, pale woods, organic shapes and neutral fabrics. Wellness packages are created for guests to include tailored nutritional meals, physical activity and beauty treatments. A recent addition has been La Réserve à la Plage, down on Pampelonne Beach, which was designed by Philippe Starck. It’s their private club with 75 sun beds and a restaurant. |
( La Reserve de la Mala )Plage de la Mala, 06320 Cap-d'Ail
What it is:A few minutes from Monaco, this is a small, secluded cove along the Cote d’Azur, with two superb restaurants and safe swimming. The beach is stony, so swim shoes are a great idea, and you can rent a lounger from the restaurants. Usually open from April through to October, it’s quieter on weekdays or late afternoons.
What we like about it:Calm, clear, warm seawater for a refreshing swim in a spot that feels nice and private. Water sports are also available if you need an adrenalin sesh.
Our favorite:For a cute day out, take a baguette lunch and some local fruit, a book, and some Agent Nateur sunscreen! |
( St Jean Cap Ferrat Coastal Walk )It might be the second most expensive residential place to live in the world after Monaco, but it is also a really nice place to walk. The 6km coastal hike is one of the best ways to appreciate the natural beauty of the Riviera coastline and takes about 2 hours, although you can stop off at a cove for a swim along the way. |
( La Reserve de la Mala )Plage de la Mala, 06320 Cap-d'Ail
What it is:A few minutes from Monaco, this is a small, secluded cove along the Cote d’Azur, with two superb restaurants and safe swimming. The beach is stony, so swim shoes are a great idea, and you can rent a lounger from the restaurants. Usually open from April through to October, it’s quieter on weekdays or late afternoons.
What we like about it:Calm, clear, warm seawater for a refreshing swim in a spot that feels nice and private. Water sports are also available if you need an adrenalin sesh.
Our favorite:For a cute day out, take a baguette lunch and some local fruit, a book, and some Agent Nateur sunscreen! |
( Cipriani Beverly Hills )362 N Camden Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
What it is:Famous Los Angeles restaurant specializing in Italian dishes, with its own Old Hollywood-style jazz cafe (think palm trees and grand piano).
What we like about it:The LA location is amazing if you know what to order. Our insider tip is if you want to order the branzino, order for the table, with homemade potato chips - it’s much, much better than the individual portion. And there are some secret dishes - we can recommend asking for the bolognese pasta (even though it isn’t on the menu!).
Our favorite:The halibut is Jena’s favorite, along with cucumber, tomato and corn salad. And don’t leave without the tiramisu and lemon meringue cake. |
( Paloma Beach )1 Chem. de Saint-Hospice, 06230 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
What it is:One of the most iconic beaches on the Cote d’Azur, this has everything - beach time, swimming, restaurant and bar.
What we like about it:It’s stylish with a vintage vibe. Call ahead to reserve a lounger or a table for dinner (8pm - 10.30pm), although at lunchtime you can eat without a reservation. In the evenings, Paloma Beach sets up its restaurant right on the beach.
Our favorite:It would have to be dinner on the beach. We love the artichoke salad with light anchovy sauce, rocket and parmesan shavings, and the lobster tail linguini. Leave room for the summer berry plate or the pavlova! |
( Club 55 )43 Bd Patch, 83350 Ramatuelle
What it is:More than a beach club for the rich and famous, Club 55 has a really nice outdoor restaurant under shade. It serves great fish and seafood and superb fresh veggie platters which are really refreshing, with most of the produce coming from their own gardens nearby.
What we like about it:All guests are personally welcomed by the owner. You can relax in the sun on a lounger on the beach, then cool off by jumping into the ocean by the dock, and dry off in the sun again before your meal. It’s worth saving a few euros for the shop as it sells fabulous upmarket beachwear and coverups. Reservations only.
Our favorite:All guests are personally welcomed by the owner. You can relax in the sun on a lounger on the beach, then cool off by jumping into the ocean by the dock, and dry off in the sun again before your meal. It’s worth saving a few euros for the shop as it sells fabulous upmarket beachwear and coverups. Reservations only. |
( Nice Lawn Tennis Club )5 Av. Suzanne Lenglen, 06000 Nice
What it is:A historic tennis club, which has been in existence since 1890, and is now home to the ATP World Tour’s Nice Open. It has 18 clay courts including a center court stadium. The club also has a gym, fitness and yoga room, a sauna and a clubhouse with a restaurant, a bridge room and a tennis shop.
What we like about it:If you’re interested in playing at the club during your stay, let them know and they’ll provide you with more information about temporary membership. We also love that their courts are always in excellent condition because they're maintained by a team who trained at Roland Garros.
Our favorite:A game of doubles with friends, followed by lunch on the terrace at their Coranice Restaurant which serves seasonal Mediterranean cuisine. |
( La Réserve Ramatuelle )736 Chem. des Cretes, 83350 Ramatuelle
What it is:A five star hotel and spa, offering luxury and privacy with just 28 rooms and suites, each with a terrace or balcony and a sea view over the cove below and 14 multi-room villas (the largest have six bedrooms). And there are three restaurants including the Michelin-starred La Voile and a Japanese rooftop restaurant.
What we like about it:The space, light and design work together in a therapeutic way, harmonizing a perfect blend of light lava stone, terracotta, ceramics, pale woods, organic shapes and neutral fabrics. Wellness packages are created for guests to include tailored nutritional meals, physical activity and beauty treatments. A recent addition has been La Réserve à la Plage, down on Pampelonne Beach, which was designed by Philippe Starck. It’s their private club with 75 sun beds and a restaurant.
Our favorite:The space, light and design work together in a therapeutic way, harmonizing a perfect blend of light lava stone, terracotta, ceramics, pale woods, organic shapes and neutral fabrics. Wellness packages are created for guests to include tailored nutritional meals, physical activity and beauty treatments. A recent addition has been La Réserve à la Plage, down on Pampelonne Beach, which was designed by Philippe Starck. It’s their private club with 75 sun beds and a restaurant. |
( Nora Ouari Pjanic)
What it is:Nora is a wellness nurse and masseuse therapist based in St Tropez, offering a concierge service for treatments including IV fluid infusions, lymphatic and deep tissue massage and vitamin shots. Perfect if you’re feeling a little jet-lagged.
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SHOPPING & MARKETS
You get a truly authentic feel for a country when you visit a local market. The colors, smells and sounds are all part of the experience when you buy from these vendors who are passionate about their produce.
( Marché provençal )The Covered Hall, Cours Masséna, 06600 Antibes
What it is:A market for fresh, regional fruit and vegetables from local growers including Michel, Marina and Marielle the market gardeners, local olives, olive oil and meats, fish from Denis the fisherman, cheeses from Jacques the cheesemonger, spices, fresh and dried flowers from Dominique the florist, and Coriscan specialties from Tony! Check opening hours as it is usually closed on Mondays out of season.
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( Isabella Vintage )12 Rue Gambetta, 83990 Saint-Tropez, France
What it is:A vintage shop specializing in vintage, collectable and limited edition Chanel jewelry, belts and accessories. |
( Marché Forville )6 Rue du Marché Forville, 06400 Cannes
What it is:A local market selling local, seasonal produce from market gardeners in the Cannes basin alongside locally-caught fish. Fill your basket with fruit, vegetables, honey, sausages, cheeses, garlic and freshly-baked bread. It’s been undergoing a renovation since April 2024, which will include a new roof garden, so the location of some stalls will change slightly, temporarily. On Saturdays there are additional stalls, including antiques. Closed on Mondays.
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( Marché provençal )The Covered Hall, Cours Masséna, 06600 Antibes
What it is:A market for fresh, regional fruit and vegetables from local growers including Michel, Marina and Marielle the market gardeners, local olives, olive oil and meats, fish from Denis the fisherman, cheeses from Jacques the cheesemonger, spices, fresh and dried flowers from Dominique the florist, and Coriscan specialties from Tony! Check opening hours as it is usually closed on Mondays out of season.
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( Marché Forville )6 Rue du Marché Forville, 06400 Cannes
What it is:A local market selling local, seasonal produce from market gardeners in the Cannes basin alongside locally-caught fish. Fill your basket with fruit, vegetables, honey, sausages, cheeses, garlic and freshly-baked bread. It’s been undergoing a renovation since April 2024, which will include a new roof garden, so the location of some stalls will change slightly, temporarily. On Saturdays there are additional stalls, including antiques. Closed on Mondays.
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( Isabella Vintage )12 Rue Gambetta, 83990 Saint-Tropez, France
What it is:A vintage shop specializing in vintage, collectable and limited edition Chanel jewelry, belts and accessories. |